Iconic Animals in Jewelry

Jewelry designs are often rich in symbolism, especially pieces featuring creatures great and small, mythical or real. Human relationships with animals have existed since the birth of mankind. This enduring relationship we have with the animal kingdom is responsible for the rich and complex tapestry of animal symbolism, inspiring some of the most iconic jewelry pieces that are forever linked with a jewelry house.

In this article, we have highlighted some of the most iconic animal designs from the celebrated jewelry houses and how they came to be.

“Women are tired of jewelry-looking jewelry, and they want one-of-a-kind pieces… Animals are here to stay.”

David Webb
david webb diamond and enamel tiger
David Webb Diamond and Enamel Tiger Bracelet (Lot 2111, April Jewels & Watches)

David Webb

David Webb is one of America’s most important and distinguished jewelers. He is best known for his distinctively carved, enameled animal bracelets, his use of rich, burnished, textured gold and exquisite rock crystal pieces. The use of animals has been a David Webb signature, admired by collectors who recognize his creative genius. His statement pieces bring animals like the zebra, chimera, leopard, tiger and other fantastic creatures to life. His bold designs have been made even more iconic by powerful women like Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Beyoncé—who represent a small group of Webb’s influential clientele. This David Webb Diamond and Enamel Tiger Bracelet from our April Jewels & Watches auction is a prime example of Webb’s fierce creativity.

david webb coral panther ring
David Webb Coral Panther Ring (Lot 2219, April Jewels & Watches)

Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger

tiffany & co
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Vintage Multi-Gemstone Fish Brooch (Lot 2039, April Jewels & Watches)


Throughout the history of Tiffany & Co., the brand has worked with visionary jewelry designers, including Elsa Peretti, Paloma Picasso, Frank Gehry and, of course, Jean Schlumberger, who is renowned for his layered enamel technique. Jean Schlumberger was deeply inspired by nature and movement, which is apparent in this Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Vintage Multi-Gemstone Fish Brooch from our upcoming sale. The vibrant fish is caught mid-swim and its gem-covered scales glimmer quickly to bring life to the piece. The jeweler traveled far and wide seeking inspiration from places like Bali, India, and Thailand. The “Bird on a Rock” is one of the famed French designer’s most iconic pieces, originally designed in 1956 with the Tiffany Yellow Diamond in mind, one of the largest yellow diamonds to have ever been discovered. Since then, the design has been reissued by Tiffany & Co.—still with only large stones as the bird’s perch. many of which have been sold by FORTUNA® throughout the years. When Tiffany hired Schlumberger, it was made clear he was to maintain his unique style in his creations for the jeweler. That much is evident in this Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Diamond Multi-Gemstone and Enamel Cow Brooch, perhaps inspired by his travels to India where the animal is held to be sacred. The bold brooch is currently available for a starting bid of $4,500 in our April Jewels & Watches sale.

diamond multi-gemstone and enamel cow brooch
Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Diamond Multi-Gemstone and Enamel Cow Brooch (Lot 2018, April Jewels & Watches)

Cartier

cartier emerald panthere brooch
Cartier Emerald “Panthère” Brooch in 18K Gold

When discussing animal designs, the world-renowned brand, Cartier has become synonymous with the Panthère. When Jeanne Toussaint, a Parisian style icon, became acquainted with French jeweler Louis Cartier, new inspiration for Cartier’s famous jewelry line was born. As a result of Toussaint’s elegance and remarkable determination—as well as her finely decorated apartment adorned with leopard skin—she earned the nickname “La Panthère” from her then-lover, Louis Cartier. Toussaint soon became the creative inspiration for many of Cartier’s most popular Panthère motifs.

nautilus shell coral and emerald brooch
Cartier Nautilus Shell Coral and Emerald Brooch/Pendant

Yet, Cartier’s artful appreciation of the animal kingdom is by no means limited to the Panthère. This Cartier Nautilus Shell Coral and Emerald Brooch/Pendant from our upcoming April Jewels & Watches sale encapsulates many of the same traditions of excellence as seen in the famous Panthère. The bold accessory is carved in 18K gold and is set with a beautifully carved nautilus shell shaped coral. Cartier has exhibited spectacular ingenuity in their use of red coral, from this striking nautilus conch piece to charming lady bug designs.

The Fascination Behind Royal Jewels

The study of jewelry can be one of the most fascinating areas of study. To truly appreciate it, one must understand everything from the different geological phenomena miles beneath the surface of the earth to produce such wonders as rubies and diamonds, to the social and economic intricacies of the time that influenced how people adorned themselves. Jewelry is a study of science, art, history—everything. One of the first places people turn to when learning about the evolution of jewelry is the monarchies of the world. Through letters, paintings, and civil wars, royal families provide us with a deeper knowledge of jewelry and its place in the world.

Queen Elizabeth II on her wedding day, wearing the Queen Mary Fringe Tiara (via Getty Images)

There is perhaps no royal family alive today as famous as that of the Royal House of Windsor. The British Royal Family has one of the most extensive jewelry collections in the world. Much of the collection we’ve seen today were acquired during Queen Mary’s reign. One of the most iconic pieces of jewelry from her collection was the Fringe Tiara. Queen Elizabeth II and Princess Anne both wore The Queen Mary Fringe Tiara on their wedding days, and Her Majesty most recently loaned the piece to her granddaughter, Princess Beatrice of York, for her socially-distanced wedding to Edoardo Mapelli Mozzi in 2020. The diamonds of this tiara, however, go back much farther than that; they were originally part of a necklace that Queen Victoria had made and given to Mary as a wedding gift in 1893. The avid jewelry collector, Queen Mary, had the necklace taken apart and made into the Fringe Tiara, to resemble those made popular by the imperial court of the Romanovs.

 

Russian Crown Jewels on display after the Bolsheviks established the Soviet Union (via www.usgs.gov)

The quick and violent fall of the Romanov family in Russia saw a huge dispersion of the empire’s greatest jewels and treasures. Historians are still attempting to track down what happened to most of them, which were largely looted. Among the treasures that remain in the country is the Imperial Crown of Russia, a crown thought to be so valuable that its replica alone, which travels the globe as a part of museum exhibitions, is worth $15.1 million in material value. One particularly striking pearl drop tiara known as “the Russian Beauty” found its way into many great hands after the fall of the Russian empire. It went from Empress of Russia Marie Feodorovna, to the 9th Duke of Marlborough, to the First Lady of the Philippines, to eventually fall into the hands of the Philippine authorities when the presidential family fled to Hawaii. It is much hoped that the tiara remains in the possession of the current Filipino government and that it will one day make its way back to the public eye. Another item from the collection of Marie Feodorovna may have wound up in the possession of the British royal family. A diamond and pearl choker with a geometric sapphire and diamond was allegedly purchased by Queen Mary and has been seen on Queen Elizabeth II’s daughter, Princess Anne, on occasions such as the gala on the eve of Prince William’s wedding to Kate Middleton. 

Princess Anne of England in what is believed to be the missing Romanov Choker
Queen Isabella pledging her jewels for Columbus’ expedition in the 15th century, in a painting by artist Antonio Munoz Degrain (1843-1924), c. 1878 (via Stock Photo).

There is much myth and lore surrounding jewelry, none perhaps as consequential as that of the discovery of the New World. Tale after tale has emerged of how Queen Isabella of Spain sold her precious royal jewels to fund the expedition of Christopher Columbus. Historians largely agree that this did not occur, as the Spanish had a large treasury at the time, but it painted the monarch as a passionate queen who believed in the journey west. In reality, much of Queen Isabella’s jewelry remains in Spain today, and much more was created upon the discovery of gold, silver, and valuable spices in South America.  The Spanish acquired great wealth as a result of the settlement of the New World, wealth whose remnants can still be seen today in the collection of jewelry amassed by the Spanish royal family. 

Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden wears the Napoleonic Amethyst Parure Tiara in Amsterdam in April 2013 (via Michel Porro/Getty Images)

Amethysts were valued higher than diamonds for both their color and their rarity. Amethysts can be found on many Crown Jewels including the Napoleonic Amethyst Parure Tiara, today belonging to the Swedish Royal family. The Swedish Royal Family was put in place by Emperor Napoleon, Jean-Baptiste Bernadotte, one of Napoleon’s military leaders who ultimately was elected King of Sweden. The Swedish Royal Family has a vast collection of jewels dating back to the Napoleonic Empire. This stunning Napoleonic Amethyst Parure Tiarae was also once gifted to Empress Josephine by Emperor Napoleon.

Few have had as many jewels or started as many jewelry trends as royalty. True jewelry collectors can appreciate both the rare natural phenomena behind the creation of the stones used, the craftsmanship of the goldsmiths, and, quite importantly, the history of civilizations past that led the jewelry world to where it is today.

Our Favorite Aquamarines At Auction

To celebrate March’s birthstone, our specialists are excited to share some of the finest aquamarine jewels—from a large range of style periods—to have passed through our auctions. 

The name “aquamarine” is derived from Latin, meaning “sea water.” It is a blue colored beryl stone that has been prized by collectors and jewelry craftsmen for its transparency and serene blue-green color. The rough crystals are relatively clean, with hardly any inclusions or markings appearing in finished gems—truly giving it the pure nature of a drop of water.     

Tony Duquette Aquamarine Cuff- Fortuna Fine Jewelry & Watch Auction

Tony Duquette Aquamarine and Cultured Pearl Cuff

Why we love it:

An American artist that has been celebrated for his stage and film designs, Tony Duquette sure knows how to bring drama to his jewels. Crafted in 18K white gold, featuring three cut-cornered aquamarines weighing a total of approximately 130 carats, the statement cuff looks as if it could have belonged to one of the many fantastical characters in Duquette’s many productions. With the luster from the black pearl accents, Duquette adds the perfect touch to complete the magical look of this underwater-themed masterpiece.

The gorgeous piece achieved $17,500 at FORTUNA®’s past Important Jewels auction.

Buccellati Aquamarine Ring

Why we love it:

Buccellati has long been admired for their superior mastery of gold metalwork, creating stunning brushed textures likened to silk or linen cloth. The fine craftsmanship behind the textured foliage ring mount creates the perfect home for this startling 22.37-carat cushion step-cut aquamarine. This center stone is exceptional in both color and clarity, even amongst most other aquamarine stones.

The fine ring achieved $28,800 at auction, far surpassing its pre-sale estimate of $6,000–$8,000 in FORTUNA®’s February Fine Jewels auction.

Antique Large Aquamarine and Diamond Pendant Necklace

Why we love it:

Quite possibly dating back to the Edwardian era, this antique pendant encapsulates all the elegance and charm seen in the courts of the early 20th century. Crafted in platinum—a fine metal that was heavily utilized in Edwardian jewelry—this delicate pendant features a large 65-carat pear-shaped aquamarine, accented by antique diamonds ranging from Old European-cuts, single-cuts, and rose-cuts.

This gorgeous antiquity achieved $10,000 at FORTUNA’s Fine Jewels auction.  

Tiffany & Co. Morganite and Aquamarine Necklace

Tiffany & Co. Aquamarine Morganite and Diamond Drop Necklace

Why we love it:

Aside from the superb craftsmanship that Tiffany & Co. has built its centuries long reputation on, this bespoke necklace is all the more desirable for its one-of-a-kind design. This gorgeous piece features a cascading array of expertly matched marquise-shaped aquamarines and morganites—a gemstone first discovered in 1910 by George F. Kunz, Tiffany & Co.’s own chief gemologist. Tiffany & Co. has long been behind the popularization of lesser known precious gemstones in jewelry designs, and this gorgeous necklace is a prime example of it.

This custom-made necklace achieved a final auction price of $30,000 in FORTUNA’s Fine Jewels sale.

Top Instagram Posts of 2020

The year 2020 has been an interesting one to say the least; but the year is not without its victories and we have you to thank for that! The global pandemic put everything in perspective, and here at FORTUNA®, we wanted to focus our efforts in reaching you directly, and creating the best content imaginable so you could feel confident in your purchases. It’s quite appropriate that in the year 2020, we managed to reach 20K followers (and growing) on Instagram! We are thrilled you love our content as much as we love creating it for you, so here is a look back at some of our top social media posts of 2020.

6.76-Carat Emerald & Diamond Ring

Our top social media post of 2020 came shortly after reaching the 10K follower mark and right before Labor Day weekend, with over 5.1K “Likes” and counting. Emeralds have always been a favorite of FORTUNA’s Instagram and Facebook audience, but this 6.76-Carat Emerald and Diamond Ring stood out amongst them all—going on to achieve $25,000 at FORTUNA’s August Jewels & Watches auction. The ring is quite reminiscent of the spectacular engagement ring in the film “Crazy Rich Asians”—a resemblance our followers, old and new, were quick to point out in the comments section!

Cartier Rubellite & Diamond Ring

Our social media followers share our love of deep-colored gemstones. This Cartier Rubellite and Diamond Ring didn’t just make it big on social media with almost 4K likes, it also made it big on auction day. The beautiful ring, which had a starting bid of only $3,250, went on to achieve $22,500 on auction day!

Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Aquamarine & Diamond Ring

It’s hard to find a piece that has quite so much going for it as this Tiffany & Co. Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Ring. Lovers of colored gemstones, admirers of the Art Deco style that characterized the Roaring Twenties, and fans of the British Royal Family can all find what they’re looking for in this beautiful ring. With a starting bid of $4,500—and over 3.9K likes on social—this beautiful ring achieved $11,250 on auction day.

Art Deco Jaeger-LeCoultre Diamond Ladies Watch

Approval of the British monarchy is at an all-time high, so it’s no surprise that our bidders fawn over their more famous looks. This Art Deco Jaeger-Lecoultre Diamond Ladies Watch in Platinum holds the same mechanical watch movement that Queen Elizabeth II wore on her coronation day and is similarly set in an exquisite diamond bracelet. The beautiful watch got over 3K likes and many big bids, bringing it from its starting bid of $8,500 to its total achieved price of $37,500 in our October Jewels & Watches sale.

Aletto Brothers Fine Sapphire & Diamond Ring

Our followers sure do love rings! This Aletto Brothers Fine Sapphire and Diamond Ring was our fifth top post of 2020—though we have a feeling it may be pushed out of that place soon. After all, we have plenty of content in store with all the exciting auctions we have on the horizon. This ring, however, is perfectly worthy of the spot with nearly 3K likes, 34 comments, and endless glisten!

Thank you to everyone for making 2020 so special. Your support is especially significant to us, now more than ever, and we genuinely look forward to bringing you more beautiful jewels and watches in 2021.

Valentine’s Day Favorites from FORTUNA®

Now more than ever, it’s important to make the upcoming holidays especially memorable in a year that often feels monotonous with quarantine. In FORTUNA®’s January Jewels & Watches auction, we have everything you need to show the special people in your life that you care. From heart-shaped jewelry to romantic rubies, FORTUNA is your one-stop-shop for all your Valentine’s Day shopping.

Ruby and Diamond Heart Earrings, Lot 2196

Heart shapes as we know them today have been used for centuries, but weren’t considered a symbol of love until about the 15th century. These Ruby and Diamond Heart Earrings were practically made for Valentine’s Day. The two heart-shaped modified brilliant-cut rubies weigh a total of 3.03 carats, and are as deep a red as the roses she would have otherwise expected as her Valentines gift. The beautiful stones are enhanced by pear- and round brilliant-cut diamonds, most with G-H color and SI clarity.

Invisibly-Set Ombre Pink Sapphire and Diamond Flower Earrings/Pendant, Lot 2067

The gifting of flowers for Valentine’s Day originated in Europe during the late 17th century. This Valentine’s Day, preserve the tradition but add a dazzling twist by bidding on these charming Invisibly-Set Ombre Pink Sapphire and Diamond Flower Earrings/Pendant. Set with caliber-cut pink sapphires, these lovely earrings are holiday-appropriate and are just in time for the coming spring season.

Tiffany & Co. Antique Moonstone and Sapphire Necklace, Lot 2216
Antique Diamond Bypass Ring, Lot 2264

The allure of gifting vintage and antique pieces is behind the many stories estate jewelry has to tell. Unlike most commodities, the beauty of jewelry can be eternal—a wonderful symbol of everlasting love and a memento of your love story that can be passed down for generations to come. FORTUNA’s January auction is overflowing with estate jewels dating as far back as the Victorian era, with highlights such as this Tiffany & Co. Antique Moonstone and Sapphire Necklace, and an Antique Bypass Ring featuring stunning Old European-cut diamonds.

Amethyst and Diamond Chandelier Earrings, Lot 2050

February’s birthstone is none other than the amethyst. The beautiful purple stone is the most valuable of the quartz variety and is a symbol of everlasting love. The stone is said to have been worn by St. Valentine himself; the patron saint of the holiday wore an amethyst ring with a cupid engraving. This Valentine’s Day, mark the occasion with an extra symbolic pair of Amethyst and Diamond Chandelier Earrings.

Diamond and Cultured Pearl Princess Length Necklace, Lot 2213

Pearls are a staple piece in everyone’s jewelry box, and are seeing a revival in recent months, with figures like Harry Styles and Vice President Kamala Harris donning these classic accessories. This antique Diamond and Cultured Pearl Princess Length Necklace is more glamorous than most, set with a clasp of three impressive cushion-shaped diamonds weighing over 8-carats in total.

Ruby and Diamond Necklace, Lot 2142

Ruby is considered to be a stone of love, passion, and energy—all necessary traits for an enduring romance. This Ruby and Diamond Necklace is set with an approximate 50-carats worth of round mixed-cut rubies and over 3 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds. This vibrant and versatile accessory can be worn year-round, as well as serve as a wonderful reminder of your precious bond.

Alex Sepkus 4.03-Carat Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring, D/IF Type IIa, Lot 3003

If you are hoping to make this Valentine’s Day a night to be forever remembered, FORTUNA’s January auction also comes complete with a broad selection of engagement rings. The most exceptional ring of them all is the Alex Sepkus 4.03-Carat Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring. Pear-shaped diamonds are a popular choice because of the optimal brilliance the cut creates. Furthermore, this diamond features D color, IF clarity, and a Type IIa classification—making it one of finest diamonds to be found on the market. Type IIa diamonds are often referred to as Golconda diamonds because of the centuries long association of chemically pure diamonds with the historic Golconda mines in India; and because the Golconda mines are no longer operational, these diamonds are all the more rare.

FORTUNA’s January Jewels & Watches auction is now online and ready for bidding. The sale goes live on Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 11 AM EST.

Melo Pearl Conch Pearl Lariat Necklace

Nature’s Rare Beauties: The Melo Pearl

Often referred to as the “Queen of Gems,” pearls possess a history and allure far beyond what today’s wearer may recognize. Long before the cultivation of pearls was discovered, a natural pearl necklace comprised of well-matched spheres was a treasure of almost incomparable value, reserved almost exclusively for the noble, rich, and powerful.

Unlike gemstones that are mined from the earth, a living organism actually produces a pearl. A pearl is formed when an irritant, such as parasite, sand or a piece of shell, becomes accidentally lodged in an oyster’s soft inner cavity—similar to our own unfortunate experiences with splinters. As a natural physiological response, oysters coat that irritant to protect itself with a crystalline fluid composed of calcium carbonate called “nacre.” Over time, nacre builds up around the irritant in layers until a pearl is formed.

What are Non-Nacreous Pearls?

The term “pearl” generally refers to nacreous creations found in oysters, but there are also non-nacreous gems created in other mollusks that fall under this category. These include incredibly rare, oval-shaped conch pearls and yellowish-orange Melo pearls. In this article, we will be elaborating on the non-nacreous Melo pearl, which is formed in a similar fashion as the oyster pearl, but are composed of mainly calcite.

Melo pearls come from the Melo melo gastropod from the Volutidae family, also known as the Indian volute or the bailer shell. This large sea snail has a limited range, occupying shallow seas and populates the South China Sea. They can also be found near Myanmar, Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and the Philippines.

Since Melo pearls are non-nacreous, they do not have the familiar iridescent shine of white pearls. However, the Melo pearl has a porcelaneous luster that makes it very attractive. Occurring in a range of colors, the most prized is the intense orange hue similar to a ripe papaya. These pearls exhibit silky flame-like stripes, and the most valuable Melo pearls are those with excellent flame structure.

A 39.91ct Melo melo pearl lariat necklace (Lot 3002, December Jewels & Watches)
These rare pearls were once a sign of royalty in Eastern cultures, even when they were unknown to the rest of the world. Believed to be droplets falling from dragons in the sky, Melo pearls were worshipped as holy objects. Because of this, they were never drilled and worn. Still, emperors would often wear motifs of a dragon chasing a flaming orange pearl.

How Rare are Melo Pearls?

The probability of finding an orange Melo pearl is one in several thousand shells, and they occur in a variety of shapes, ranging from irregular baroque to oval and egg-shaped. Although generally rounded, nearly perfect spheres are extremely rare and especially coveted. While most pearls are measured in millimeters according to their size, Melo pearls, like diamonds, are measured in carats. They are also harder than traditional pearls at 5 Mohs.

Oysters and mussels can be cultured or farmed to create pearls, however, the Melo pearl has not yet been successfully cultured. This means that every Melo pearl found is natural, grown in the wild through the creature’s own devices—making Melo pearls all the more desirable and rare.

The Allure of Type IIa Diamonds

Since the advent of diamond mining, diamonds have been prized for their clarity, transparency and purity. In fact, the finest diamonds were historically referred to as “gems of the first water”—such that the purest diamonds mimicked the color of the clearest drop of water. This age-old comparison was even noted as early as 1607, in Shakespeare’s Pericles:

Heavenly jewels which Pericles hath lost,

Begin to part their fringes of bright gold.

The diamonds of a most praisèd water

Doth appear, to make the world twice rich.

Shakespeare, Pericles (Act III, Scene 2)

Nowadays, diamonds are graded on internationally recognized scales for both clarity and color. The majority of diamonds possess varying levels of nitrogen in their chemical composition, which give them a slight yellow tinge. Colorless diamonds that possess very low levels of nitrogen are exceptionally rare and command extremely high prices at market—with prices per carat consistently increasing over time.

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2.34ct Unheated Burmese Ruby Diamond Ring - Jun 2017 Fine Jewels

The Value of Rubies

Rubies are among the most popular and historically significant gemstones used in jewelry—documented to have been transported and traded along the North Silk Road of China as early as 200 BC. Rubies have always been held in high esteem in ancient Asian cultures, and with the emergence of Western culture, the gemstone was often associated with medieval European royalty as a symbol of their wealth. With varying shades of red, rubies are still prized today for their hardness and vividness. The most in-demand rubies are among the most expensive gemstones.

Are Rubies Rare?

Some rubies are rarer than diamonds and are amongst the rarest gemstones in the world. Large, deep red rubies of gemstone quality, for example, are very scarce, as are Burmese rubies. However, smaller rubies that have been treated or lab-grown are not rare at all. 

Fine Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet (Lot 2087, November 2020 Jewels & Watches Auction)
Ruby and Diamond Swirl Necklace and Eternity Band (Lot 2070, 2071, November Jewels & Watches Auction)

Where Are Rubies Found?

Rubies have historically been mined in South Asia. For many hundreds of years, Burma — now known as Myanmar — was where most of the world’s rubies were found. Today, rubies from this region are rarer, but the gemstones are still mined in the area as well as in Afghanistan, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. Some rubies have even been found in the United States.  

Burmese rubies are among the finest and rarest stones in the world. Prized for their deep red color, the importation of the stone was actually banned in the US until 2017 to put pressure on the Myanmar government. The ban was lifted in 2017 and so the demand for beautiful jewels such as this Very Fine Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet from FORTUNA’s upcoming November Jewels & Watches sale, has been revived. The beautiful accessory has a cumulative Burmese ruby carat weight of 18.30 carats and is being offered Thursday, November 5th, for a starting bid of $20,000.

What Color Ruby Is Most Valuable?

The red color of rubies is caused by the presence of chromium in the gemstone, and it is the characteristic that affects the gemstone’s value the most. A ruby’s red shade can range from a vibrant red to deep red, and even orangey to purplish red. Rubies with the purest red color and no treatments command higher prices, while the most desirable rubies are those that exhibit a very deep red and slight purple tinge. This color is known in the industry as “pigeon’s blood” and is exceptionally rare and sought by collector’s worldwide.

What Are the Quality Factors in a Ruby?

While a ruby’s color might be the primary factor a collector considers when contemplating value, there are multiple characteristics to be aware of before investing in ruby gemstones:

  • Color: A natural, untreated, and deep color is most prized. Rubies that are too light or dark or have orange undertones do not command the same high prices, but they do have enthusiasts.
  • Size: Larger gemstone-quality rubies are higher in value than their smaller counterparts. Natural, untreated gemstone-quality rubies over 1 carat are already quite hard to come by, and can command high prices.
  • Inclusions: Any inclusions that affect the brightness of the ruby or are visible can significantly reduce value. While almost all rubies have some inclusions, fewer inclusions and less-visible ones improve value.
  • Asterism: Some rubies have a “star effect,” which can create a unique look and even soften the color. Depending on the cut and appearance, this can increase or decrease value.
  • Fluorescence: Rubies fluoresce and seem to “glow” in some light. This fluorescence can affect the way the ruby appears in daylight, and in turn, its market value.
  • Custom cut and recut: Rubies that have been commercially cut or native cut in the country where they were mined are worth less than recut or custom-cut gemstones sent to experienced cutters. In general, cuts that highlight the beauty of the ruby, minimize any inclusions and maintain as much size as possible are the most valued.
  • Origin: Burmese rubies are considered the most valuable. A small percentage of them are known to possess a deep, almost purple color known as “pigeon’s blood red” and have significant fluorescence, making them appear to glow even in daylight. Mogok and Sri Lankan rubies are also highly valued.

Selling and Buying Rubies

Whether you want to sell an heirloom ruby ring or purchase some fine pieces for your collection, FORTUNA can help. Our auction specialists possess decades of experience evaluating ruby jewels and identifying key characteristics that can enhance its market value. As an auction house with fine jewelry sales all year round, we have had the honor of selling some of the finest ruby jewelry imaginable, and are especially attuned to the global market trends specific to colored gemstones.

If you’d like to sell a ruby, contact FORTUNA today for a free, no-obligation valuation. You can also browse our upcoming auctions to find some of the best one-of-a-kind pieces on the market.

FORTUNA’s upcoming November Jewels & Watches sale includes a variety of ruby jewels in various price ranges, with more lots being added every week until the sale! Pre-bidding has already begun, but be sure to check in for more lots before the sale goes live, Thursday, November 5th, at 11 AM EST.

watch

BVLGARI: Iconic Designs by the Italian Jeweler

FORTUNA® has always enjoyed the fortune of offering extraordinary jewelry pieces from the historic makers. For our August Jewels & Watches auction, we are excited to present multiple iconic pieces by Bulgari, the renowned luxury Italian jeweler. To commemorate the long history and successes of the brand, we decided to dive deep into its past and highlight some of their more celebrated designs.

Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by the talented Greek silversmith Sotirios Georgis Boulgaris; his name was later Italianised to Sotirio Bulgari. In its early years, Bulgari was known for silver pieces that borrowed elements from Byzantine and Islamic art, combining them with floral motifs. Having latched onto jewelry style trends emanating from Paris, Bulgari continued to follow the lead of what was then the world’s jewelry capital throughout the first half of the century.

When Sotirio passed away in 1932, his two sons, Giorgio and Costantino—who each had a keen interest in precious stones and jewels—took over the business. The brothers undertook an extravagant remodeling of both the interior and the exterior of the Via Condotti store and formally changed the company logo to “BVLGARI,” an application of the traditional Roman alphabet. 

bvgari serpenti tubogas in 18K rose gold
Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas in 18K Rose Gold. Achieved $13,750 at auction.

As the 1940s came to a close, Bulgari introduced the Serpenti bracelet-watches, which were constructed using a technique called Tubogas. Tubogas literally translates to “gas pipe,” and is the descriptive name given to a type of chain formed from a pair of interlocking long gold strips wrapped tightly together. The core is then removed, making the now hollow piece remarkably flexible and lightweight. The edges interlock, requiring no soldering. While Bulgari’s first example was made in 1948, it took another 15 years before its goldsmiths fully mastered the technique, and made it one of the brand’s iconic designs. Even without the recognizable Tubogas look, the Italian jeweler has often incorporated flexible bands in many of their works, such as these vintage Bulgari accessories.

Enamored by ancient legends of the snake, a symbol of rebirth and vitality, Bulgari has reimagined its famous serpent in countless designs. Pictured below, LVCEA’s gleaming band also takes inspiration from Serpenti, with each interlocking element mimicking a reptilian scale. The LVCEA diamond encrusted ladies watch in 18K white gold achieved $11,250 in our August Jewels & Watches auction.

bulgari lvcea ladies 18K white gold
Bulgari Lvcea Ladies’ in 18K White Gold. Achieved $11,250 at auction.

Bulgari, always ahead of the curve, also began creating matching sets of jewelry and selling them as separate pieces. The Italian jeweler recognized the modern woman’s desire to decide whether she wanted to mix and match, giving her countless combinations to create different looks. These vintage Bulgari pieces from FORTUNA®’s August Jewels & Watches sale are sold separately but would be tremendously chic when worn together. By selling the accessories separately, Bulgari gave women the opportunity to accumulate the matching designs over time and added to the excitement of the jewelry shopping experience.

vintage bulgari necklace, bracelet, earclips and ring
Vintage Bulgari necklace (Lot 2037), bracelet (Lot 2038), earclips (Lot 2039), and ring (Lot 2040).

Bulgari is probably most well-known for coining the concept of modular design, using bold and recognizable designs with clean shapes. These designs are devoid of excessive ornamentation and are instead composed of interlocking elements that can adapt easily to different sizes by simply removing or adding components. The most famous example of modular designs can be found in the Parentesi collection.

bulgari parentesi bracelet
Bulgari Parentesi Bracelet in 18K Gold. Achieved $5,625 at auction.

The Bulgari Parentesi was introduced in the 1980s, and were an instant hit amongst modern women who sought jewels that were appropriate for both daytime and evening occasions. The modular Parentesi designs were widely inspired by the ancient city of Rome, where Bulgari is headquartered. The details found in Roman pavements and the travertine junctions used to link the stone blocks all incorporate the parenthesis-like shape from which the collection gets its name.

Bulgari has derived inspiration from the Eternal City in more than one fashion. The cupolas of the Roman landscape were able to grace their way onto women’s fingers in the form of bold colored gemstones with a smooth, domed cut—known as “cabochon.” Perhaps the most famous use of the cabochon by Bulgari is the Trombino ring—famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor.

bulgari pink tourmaline and diamond ring
Bulgari Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring. Achieved $10,000 at auction.

Like any innovative jeweler, the brand is constantly updating its designs and seeking out new inspirations. Bulgari has since come out with more rings that resemble the imposing design of the Trombino. The Bulgari Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring, pictured above, is set with a large cabochon pink tourmaline, standing proudly above round brilliant cut diamonds. The use of stones for their impact, rather than the intrinsic value of the gem, was a huge departure from the classical Parisian design that dominated the time and distinguished Bulgari as an inimitable creator in the jewelry industry.

Bulgari has never been afraid to make bold statements with their designs and they have faithfully brought back past designs in fresh ways. The brand has not only maintained relevance but continues to lead the jewelry industry, no less than 130 years since its inception.