The Allure of Type IIa Diamonds

in Discover / Jewelry / Video Highlights

Since the advent of diamond mining, diamonds have been prized for their clarity, transparency and purity. In fact, the finest diamonds were historically referred to as “gems of the first water”—such that the purest diamonds mimicked the color of the clearest drop of water. This age-old comparison was even noted as early as 1607, in Shakespeare’s Pericles:

Heavenly jewels which Pericles hath lost,

Begin to part their fringes of bright gold.

The diamonds of a most praisèd water

Doth appear, to make the world twice rich.

Shakespeare, Pericles (Act III, Scene 2)

Nowadays, diamonds are graded on internationally recognized scales for both clarity and color. The majority of diamonds possess varying levels of nitrogen in their chemical composition, which give them a slight yellow tinge. Colorless diamonds that possess very low levels of nitrogen are exceptionally rare and command extremely high prices at market—with prices per carat consistently increasing over time.

Read More›
2.34ct Unheated Burmese Ruby Diamond Ring - Jun 2017 Fine Jewels

The Value of Rubies

in Discover / Jewelry

Rubies are among the most popular and historically significant gemstones used in jewelry—documented to have been transported and traded along the North Silk Road of China as early as 200 BC. Rubies have always been held in high esteem in ancient Asian cultures, and with the emergence of Western culture, the gemstone was often associated with medieval European royalty as a symbol of their wealth. With varying shades of red, rubies are still prized today for their hardness and vividness. The most in-demand rubies are among the most expensive gemstones.

Are Rubies Rare?

Some rubies are rarer than diamonds and are amongst the rarest gemstones in the world. Large, deep red rubies of gemstone quality, for example, are very scarce, as are Burmese rubies. However, smaller rubies that have been treated or lab-grown are not rare at all. 

Fine Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet (Lot 2087, November 2020 Jewels & Watches Auction)
Ruby and Diamond Swirl Necklace and Eternity Band (Lot 2070, 2071, November Jewels & Watches Auction)

Where Are Rubies Found?

Rubies have historically been mined in South Asia. For many hundreds of years, Burma — now known as Myanmar — was where most of the world’s rubies were found. Today, rubies from this region are rarer, but the gemstones are still mined in the area as well as in Afghanistan, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. Some rubies have even been found in the United States.  

Burmese rubies are among the finest and rarest stones in the world. Prized for their deep red color, the importation of the stone was actually banned in the US until 2017 to put pressure on the Myanmar government. The ban was lifted in 2017 and so the demand for beautiful jewels such as this Very Fine Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet from FORTUNA’s upcoming November Jewels & Watches sale, has been revived. The beautiful accessory has a cumulative Burmese ruby carat weight of 18.30 carats and is being offered Thursday, November 5th, for a starting bid of $20,000.

What Color Ruby Is Most Valuable?

The red color of rubies is caused by the presence of chromium in the gemstone, and it is the characteristic that affects the gemstone’s value the most. A ruby’s red shade can range from a vibrant red to deep red, and even orangey to purplish red. Rubies with the purest red color and no treatments command higher prices, while the most desirable rubies are those that exhibit a very deep red and slight purple tinge. This color is known in the industry as “pigeon’s blood” and is exceptionally rare and sought by collector’s worldwide.

What Are the Quality Factors in a Ruby?

While a ruby’s color might be the primary factor a collector considers when contemplating value, there are multiple characteristics to be aware of before investing in ruby gemstones:

  • Color: A natural, untreated, and deep color is most prized. Rubies that are too light or dark or have orange undertones do not command the same high prices, but they do have enthusiasts.
  • Size: Larger gemstone-quality rubies are higher in value than their smaller counterparts. Natural, untreated gemstone-quality rubies over 1 carat are already quite hard to come by, and can command high prices.
  • Inclusions: Any inclusions that affect the brightness of the ruby or are visible can significantly reduce value. While almost all rubies have some inclusions, fewer inclusions and less-visible ones improve value.
  • Asterism: Some rubies have a “star effect,” which can create a unique look and even soften the color. Depending on the cut and appearance, this can increase or decrease value.
  • Fluorescence: Rubies fluoresce and seem to “glow” in some light. This fluorescence can affect the way the ruby appears in daylight, and in turn, its market value.
  • Custom cut and recut: Rubies that have been commercially cut or native cut in the country where they were mined are worth less than recut or custom-cut gemstones sent to experienced cutters. In general, cuts that highlight the beauty of the ruby, minimize any inclusions and maintain as much size as possible are the most valued.
  • Origin: Burmese rubies are considered the most valuable. A small percentage of them are known to possess a deep, almost purple color known as “pigeon’s blood red” and have significant fluorescence, making them appear to glow even in daylight. Mogok and Sri Lankan rubies are also highly valued.

Selling and Buying Rubies

Whether you want to sell an heirloom ruby ring or purchase some fine pieces for your collection, FORTUNA can help. Our auction specialists possess decades of experience evaluating ruby jewels and identifying key characteristics that can enhance its market value. As an auction house with fine jewelry sales all year round, we have had the honor of selling some of the finest ruby jewelry imaginable, and are especially attuned to the global market trends specific to colored gemstones.

If you’d like to sell a ruby, contact FORTUNA today for a free, no-obligation valuation. You can also browse our upcoming auctions to find some of the best one-of-a-kind pieces on the market.

FORTUNA’s upcoming November Jewels & Watches sale includes a variety of ruby jewels in various price ranges, with more lots being added every week until the sale! Pre-bidding has already begun, but be sure to check in for more lots before the sale goes live, Thursday, November 5th, at 11 AM EST.

  • Read about Fortuna in How to Spend It
    Bulgari Burmese Ruby & Diamond “Trombino” Ring, achieved $28,125.
  • 5.16-Carat Fine Ruby & Diamond Ring, achieved $25,000.
  • Cartier Ruby & Diamond Ring, achieved $22,500.
  • A Platinum Ruby & Diamond Bracelet, achieved $28,125.
  • 2.34-Carat Unheated Burmese Ruby & Diamond Ring, achieved $48,800.
Patek Philippe Natutilus

Patek Philippe: Luxury Watch Manufacturer

in Designer Spotlight / Watches

Many of today’s luxury watch brands were founded hundreds of years ago by master watchmakers. Patek Philippe is one such brand, prized by serious collectors worldwide for the precision and artistry of its pieces.

Who Is Patek Philippe?

The Patek Philippe brand of watches was founded by two master watchmakers—Antoni Patek and Adrien Philippe. Their combined last names form the brand name familiar to collectors today. The company launched in 1851 when the first Patek Philippe watches were displayed at the Great Exhibition in London.

The Great Exhibition was dedicated to the most modern and exciting inventions of that era. Patek Philippe watches were innovative, with gadgetry and gears new to the world of watches. Today, Patek Philippe is still known for modernity as well as elegant styling and quality.

patek phillippe watch
Patek Philippe Ref. 5040J-014 Perpetual Calendar in 18K Gold. Achieved $23,750 at auction.
Read More›
watch

BVLGARI: Iconic Designs by the Italian Jeweler

in Designer Spotlight / Discover / Jewelry

FORTUNA® has always enjoyed the fortune of offering extraordinary jewelry pieces from the historic makers. For our August Jewels & Watches auction, we are excited to present multiple iconic pieces by Bulgari, the renowned luxury Italian jeweler. To commemorate the long history and successes of the brand, we decided to dive deep into its past and highlight some of their more celebrated designs.

Bulgari was founded in Rome in 1884 by the talented Greek silversmith Sotirios Georgis Boulgaris; his name was later Italianised to Sotirio Bulgari. In its early years, Bulgari was known for silver pieces that borrowed elements from Byzantine and Islamic art, combining them with floral motifs. Having latched onto jewelry style trends emanating from Paris, Bulgari continued to follow the lead of what was then the world’s jewelry capital throughout the first half of the century.

When Sotirio passed away in 1932, his two sons, Giorgio and Costantino—who each had a keen interest in precious stones and jewels—took over the business. The brothers undertook an extravagant remodeling of both the interior and the exterior of the Via Condotti store and formally changed the company logo to “BVLGARI,” an application of the traditional Roman alphabet. 

bvgari serpenti tubogas in 18K rose gold
Bvlgari Serpenti Tubogas in 18K Rose Gold. Achieved $13,750 at auction.

As the 1940s came to a close, Bulgari introduced the Serpenti bracelet-watches, which were constructed using a technique called Tubogas. Tubogas literally translates to “gas pipe,” and is the descriptive name given to a type of chain formed from a pair of interlocking long gold strips wrapped tightly together. The core is then removed, making the now hollow piece remarkably flexible and lightweight. The edges interlock, requiring no soldering. While Bulgari’s first example was made in 1948, it took another 15 years before its goldsmiths fully mastered the technique, and made it one of the brand’s iconic designs. Even without the recognizable Tubogas look, the Italian jeweler has often incorporated flexible bands in many of their works, such as these vintage Bulgari accessories.

Enamored by ancient legends of the snake, a symbol of rebirth and vitality, Bulgari has reimagined its famous serpent in countless designs. Pictured below, LVCEA’s gleaming band also takes inspiration from Serpenti, with each interlocking element mimicking a reptilian scale. The LVCEA diamond encrusted ladies watch in 18K white gold achieved $11,250 in our August Jewels & Watches auction.

bulgari lvcea ladies 18K white gold
Bulgari Lvcea Ladies’ in 18K White Gold. Achieved $11,250 at auction.

Bulgari, always ahead of the curve, also began creating matching sets of jewelry and selling them as separate pieces. The Italian jeweler recognized the modern woman’s desire to decide whether she wanted to mix and match, giving her countless combinations to create different looks. These vintage Bulgari pieces from FORTUNA®’s August Jewels & Watches sale are sold separately but would be tremendously chic when worn together. By selling the accessories separately, Bulgari gave women the opportunity to accumulate the matching designs over time and added to the excitement of the jewelry shopping experience.

vintage bulgari necklace, bracelet, earclips and ring
Vintage Bulgari necklace (Lot 2037), bracelet (Lot 2038), earclips (Lot 2039), and ring (Lot 2040).

Bulgari is probably most well-known for coining the concept of modular design, using bold and recognizable designs with clean shapes. These designs are devoid of excessive ornamentation and are instead composed of interlocking elements that can adapt easily to different sizes by simply removing or adding components. The most famous example of modular designs can be found in the Parentesi collection.

bulgari parentesi bracelet
Bulgari Parentesi Bracelet in 18K Gold. Achieved $5,625 at auction.

The Bulgari Parentesi was introduced in the 1980s, and were an instant hit amongst modern women who sought jewels that were appropriate for both daytime and evening occasions. The modular Parentesi designs were widely inspired by the ancient city of Rome, where Bulgari is headquartered. The details found in Roman pavements and the travertine junctions used to link the stone blocks all incorporate the parenthesis-like shape from which the collection gets its name.

Bulgari has derived inspiration from the Eternal City in more than one fashion. The cupolas of the Roman landscape were able to grace their way onto women’s fingers in the form of bold colored gemstones with a smooth, domed cut—known as “cabochon.” Perhaps the most famous use of the cabochon by Bulgari is the Trombino ring—famously worn by Elizabeth Taylor.

bulgari pink tourmaline and diamond ring
Bulgari Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring. Achieved $10,000 at auction.

Like any innovative jeweler, the brand is constantly updating its designs and seeking out new inspirations. Bulgari has since come out with more rings that resemble the imposing design of the Trombino. The Bulgari Pink Tourmaline and Diamond Ring, pictured above, is set with a large cabochon pink tourmaline, standing proudly above round brilliant cut diamonds. The use of stones for their impact, rather than the intrinsic value of the gem, was a huge departure from the classical Parisian design that dominated the time and distinguished Bulgari as an inimitable creator in the jewelry industry.

Bulgari has never been afraid to make bold statements with their designs and they have faithfully brought back past designs in fresh ways. The brand has not only maintained relevance but continues to lead the jewelry industry, no less than 130 years since its inception.

Ulysse Nardin Limited Edition Anchor Tourbillon

Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon Limited Carbon Dial in 18K White Gold.

in Discover / Video Highlights / Watches

FORTUNA is excited to bring to auction a rare timepiece and marvel of horological innovation: the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon Limited Carbon Dial in 18K White Gold. Conceived as a series of traditionally styled watches equipped with Ulysse Nardin’s proprietary mechanical movement and Anchor escapement, the timepiece is complete with an impressive tourbillon and 8-day power reserve, as well as unmatched craftsmanship and years of research behind the ingenious use of silicon in the movement. The carbon fiber dial adds a lot of depth and is nicely contrasted by the silver printing. The 44mm case also guarantees a handsomely grand presence on any wrist.

A closer look at the Anchor Tourbillon, the result of cutting edge innovation at Ulysse Nardin.

The real marvel behind the Ulysse Nardin Anchor Tourbillon watch is the Anchor escapement, a marriage of the best of watchmaking past with the technology of the future. Made by dedicated watchmakers and nanofabrication engineers alike, the Anchor escapement consists mostly of silicon parts, an unconventional material in the world of luxury watch making, but its resistance to magnetism and ability to be manufactured to a level of accuracy only possible with nanotechnology makes it the ideal material for horologists.

Read More›
-The-history-of-the-hope-diamond

The History of the Hope Diamond

in Discover / Jewelry

Diamonds are one of the most prominent physical representations of wealth and value you can find. Crafted through very long-term natural processes, they often appear in imagery associated with the wealthiest of the wealthy, frequently even signifying royalty.

Easily one of the most recognizable diamonds in the world is the Hope Diamond, estimated to be worth roughly a quarter of a billion dollars. On top of its incredible beauty, the Hope Diamond carries an illustrious history that contributes significantly to its great value.

Read More›
Billie Holiday Art Deco Diamond Watch t

Billie Holiday’s Diamond Watch Comes to Auction!

in Discover / Watches

FORTUNA® is excited to auction a piece of American music history in our July Jewels & Watches sale—a dress watch owned by none other, than Billie Holiday. The Art Deco diamond-covered watch is set on a platinum bracelet with a silvered dial with Arabic numerals, and promises to be one of the most coveted pieces from our exciting sale.

Billie Holiday Fine Diamond Watch in Platinum

Billie Holiday was one of the greats, her contributions to jazz and swing music are as important vocally as they are socially. Billie, born Eleanora Fagan, had all the odds stacked against her since childhood. Born as the illegitimate child of two African American teens in Philadelphia in 1915, Billie would fight off every adversity imaginable. Her father left her and her mother when she was very young to pursue a career in jazz, so she was left to be raised by her mother and grandmother. Billie was moved to Harlem, New York at just 14 where her mother worked in a brothel, and Billie suffered as a victim of sex trafficking. Both she and her mother were subsequently sent to prison.

Read More›
Bidders Graphic Illustration

Bidding Advice for First-Time Bidders

in Discover

Auctions attract many people looking for the opportunity to own and collect exquisite, designer pieces. If you are a first-time bidder at a jewelry or watch auction, navigating the ins-and-outs might not be super obvious, but it is actually quite simple. There’s a common misconception that auctions are only for a niche group of people, but we here at FORTUNA® are trying to change that notion. The thrill of taking part in an auction should be for everybody and we are happy to share some tips as to how you can get started.

What are the Different Ways to Bid & Their Advantages

You may be used to seeing auctions in movies and TV where an exclusive group of people, all in their best-kept suits, eagerly battle to be the first to hold up a paddle. At FORTUNA, there are actually multiple ways to bid besides bidding on the floor. Each method comes with its own set of advantages, and we are happy to help find the right way for you.

Online bidding is perfect for beginners who are new to the auction process. You can bid from anywhere in the world on your computer or your mobile device, and can even leave bids before the auction goes live. Leading up to the auction, you will also receive instant notifications if you have been outbid on a lot. We also offer the chance to watch a video live stream and click-in your bids in the moment. The online bidding process is simple, and one of our experts would be happy to walk you through it if you’re not particularly tech-savvy.

Phone bidding is recommended for extremely high-value lots. When the stakes are high, you want to make sure you have the specially trained eyes and ears of our phone bidders on the floor to keep you constantly informed. Phone bidders have to be ready to make split-second decisions so we recommend having a good idea of what you’re willing to spend on each lot ahead of time. Many people who bid with us would like to keep anonymous, and phone bidding is the perfect way to bid like you are in the room, with no eyes on you. Another perk of phone bidding is the lack of work on your part; you don’t have to free up your day to make sure you don’t miss your lot, all you have to do is answer the phone.

An absentee bid allows you to leave your highest possible bid ahead of time. The auctioneer will bid on your behalf during the live auction, increment by increment, up until this maximum amount. If nobody bids against you, you will win your lot for the lowest allowed bid. This form of bidding is perfect for those who have a set budget for a particular lot and do not want to overspend. They also take precedence over all other kinds of bids during a live auction, meaning that the auctioneer will honor the absentee bid first, even if an online or phone bid comes in for the same amount. Absentee bids are also ideal for those that find that neither the location nor time of the auction is convenient.

While in-person bidding is currently suspended due to the global health emergency, we recommend anyone who wants to feel the high-paced thrill of a live auction to view our livestreams on the day of the sale either on Facebook or our website.

Are There Specifics to Know Ahead of Time?

Typically, new bidders with any auction house will need to submit a valid form of photo ID and credit card information in order to be approved for bidding. The reason for this extra measure is to confirm the bidder’s seriousness in buying at auction, and ensure that all bidders are participating under the fairest conditions. Imagine how frustrating it would be if you realized you were competing against a fraudulent bidder for the same lot! This information usually takes time to process so it is best to do so at least 24 hours before the sale. This, however, is a one-time action. Once you are registered and approved to bid in your first sale, you will be automatically approved to bid in all future sales

If you have already been pre-approved for a past auction with FORTUNA, registering for an auction is as simple as a click of a button or just showing up on the day of a sale and receiving a paddle. (Floor bidding is currently unavailable due to the statewide response to stunt the spread of COVID-19.)

Leading up to the auction, it is a good idea to decide exactly which lots you intend to bid on, for a number of reasons:

  1. If you plan on bidding on multiple lots, we advise bidders to calculate in advance how much they plan on spending in total, with buyer’s premium included. For a refresher on our buyer’s premium schedule, click here.
  2. Depending on the value of the lot, the bid increments may vary. If you want to spend no more than your absolute maximum for a particular lot, it is best to familiarize yourself with the bid increments ahead of the sale—especially since they can range from $100 to $10,000.
  3. If you don’t intend on watching the sale from start to finish, it’s best to have an idea of the lot numbers you are interested in. The auctioneer typically moves through the sale at a rate of 1 lot per minute, so you can generally mark a reasonable time to check in on the progress of the sale.

If you want to be sure about every detail of an auction house’s process, you can always contact our office with your questions.

Is There A Limit To What You Can Bid On?

You can bid on as many items you want during a single auction. If you have online bids exceeding $50,000, it is likely our office might ask you to provide a bank reference prior to the sale.

Experienced bidders will tell you that it is important to set an overall budget for yourself so you don’t spend more than anticipated. Keep track of what you have bid on already, so you do not accidentally bid more on additional items—especially if you are reaching your limit for the auction.

Remember to also take into account additional costs, aside from the buyer’s premium—such as local taxes if applicable, and online fees for bidding platforms other than FORTUNA’S app or website.

Should You Research Prior to the Auction?

Absolutely! You should always learn about the jewelry on sale to make the most informed bids at an auction since all merchandise is sold as-is. Read about an item’s details in the online catalog, visit the showroom during exhibition dates or schedule an appointment to preview. Also, make sure to keep an eye out for our social media and blog posts, which always give a closer look at our jewelry and watch lots. If you can’t come to view your desired lot in person, you can always email condition@fortunaauction.com to request more information or photographs. Our specialists want you to bid confidently and encourage all questions about our offered lots.

Sign up to Bid at an Upcoming FORTUNA®

If you’re planning to bid on a sale, take the first step and evaluate the selection of future auctions. Should you find an item that interests you, contact a FORTUNA specialist in-person or online to help you view the selection and prepare for auction day.

The Art of Traditional Diamond Craftsmanship

in Discover / Q&A With Our Experts

Learn about the beauty and lost art of traditional diamond cutting with one of the jewelry specialists at FORTUNA®. In the modern age, diamond cutting has been perfected with advanced machinery and a rough diamond can be transformed into a faceted stone with optimal brilliance. But how did the master jewelers and diamantaires in the age before mechanized tools accomplish such a feat? Watch the video to appreciate the skill and patience required to create a diamond the traditional way.

Types of Antique Diamonds

Diamonds that have been cut in the traditional way might not be as brilliant or scatter light with the same vigor as modern diamonds, but they are heavily appreciated for the craftsmanship behind them and the warm, subtle glow they give off. In fact, their market value has steadily increased and continue to be heavily sought after. Here are some of the main traditional diamond cuts used in antique jewelry:

Single Cut: One of the oldest diamond cuts, the single cut dates back to 1300s. It possesses a large table (or top face), and octagonal girdle (which refers to the defining edge that shapes a diamond). A single cut diamond usually has 18 facets—almost a quarter of the facets seen in the modern round brilliant cut diamonds.

Rose Cut: The rose cut dates to the 1500s and was especially common during the Georgian and Victorian eras. It features a flat bottom with a dome-shaped crown, with triangular facets rising to a single apex—thus, resembling the shape of a rose bud.

A Victorian brooch featuring a center old European-cut diamond, surrounded by old mine-cut diamonds throughout. (FORTUNA September 2017 Fine Jewels)

Old Mine Cut: Diamonds with this cut are somewhat similar to today’s cushion-cut. They possess a squarish girdle with gently rounded corners, and have a high crown, a small table, and a large, flat culet (which refers to the pointed bottom of diamonds). The old mine cut dates to the 1700s and was most prevalent during the 1800s.

Old European Cut: This diamond cut is considered a subset of old mine cut diamonds, but are distinguished by a circular girdle, instead of a squared one. Like the old mine cut, it possesses a high crown, small table, and a noticeably flat culet. With 58 facets, it is the precursor of today’s modern round brilliant cut. The Old European cut was heavily used in jewelry of the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Nouveau eras.

For more video content, click here to subscribe to FORTUNA’s YouTube channel.