Types of Fancy Color Diamonds

Colored diamonds make headlines. These gemological marvels break records at auction houses and can be found in practically every color.

The chance of a diamond displaying unique color is roughly one in 25,000. While orange, purple, green and red are the rarest, yellows and browns are the most common fancy colors.

What Causes the Different Colors?

Each diamond possesses a unique structure of chemical elements that dictate its color, desirability, value and rarity. Most fancy color diamonds derive their color from impurities such as boron and nitrogen. 

Some of the rarest—and most expensive—diamond colors include:

  • Yellow: Trace amounts of nitrogen cause diamonds to appear yellow, with the color’s intensity depending on how much of the element is present in the gemstone. The stronger and more vivid the hue of yellow, the more valuable the yellow diamond. For more on Fancy Yellow diamonds, click here.
GIA-Certified 16.07-Carat Fancy Yellow Rectangular Brilliant-Cut Diamond Ring, Lot 3001 in Fortuna’s upcoming December Jewels & Watches auction.
  • Pink: The color centers of naturally pink diamonds can selectively absorb light in the visible region of the spectrum. Color centers result from anomalies in a crystal’s atom arrangement; a change in the crystal lattice due to intense heat exposure during the stone’s formation can sometimes cause pink graining. Because the pink color comes from atomic-level distortions to the diamond’s crystal structure, pink diamonds cannot be replicated through laboratory treatment in the same way, making these gemstones all the more spectacular. For more on pink diamonds, click here.
  • Red: The origin of a red diamond’s color is believed to be the same as that of pink diamonds, but in a more concentrated form. This theory of red diamonds being dark pink diamonds is supported by the fact that red diamonds can be only found in a single color intensity. Red is the rarest diamond color. Less than 30 genuine red diamonds have been found and cut, and they can cost up to $1 million per carat.
  • Blue: Natural blue diamonds derive their color from the presence of boron. Their hue can also be associated with hydrogen or caused by radiation exposure. 
  • Green: Naturally colored green diamonds are scarce. The displacement of carbon atoms from their normal positions causes these diamonds to develop their signature color. This phenomenon can happen artificially due to treatment by radiation or naturally when diamond deposits lie near radioactive rocks.  
  • Black: Black diamonds have many fractures that yield the stone’s distinct dark hue due to graphitization. Most get their color from large quantities of minute mineral inclusions such as hematite, pyrite or graphite that extend throughout the stone.
  • Brown: A natural brown diamond develops its color due to parallel brown grain lines arising due to molecular arrangement distortion. 
1.01-Carat Fancy Deep Pink Diamond Ring (Lot 2099, November Jewels & Watches).
Fancy Green-Blue and Fancy Greenish Blue Diamond Drop Earrings (Lot 2100, November Jewels & Watches).

The Rarity of Colored Diamonds

Most diamonds mined throughout the world, even if they contain traces of yellow, are considered colorless. Brown and yellow diamonds make up the majority of colored diamonds available today, with most naturally colored diamonds being lighter in saturation or tone. 

A Pair of Heart-Shape Fancy Colored Diamond Ear Studs, in Fancy Deep Yellowish Orange and Fancy Intense Purplish Pink (Lot 2098, November Jewels & Watches auction).

Yet the rarity of Fancy Color diamonds cannot be overstated; only one true colored diamond is found for every 10,000 carats mined. And mining diamonds with medium to dark tones is an extremely rare occurrence, a phenomenon that drives its market value higher. Furthermore, when especially large Fancy Color diamonds are found, their value reaches an almost legendary status at market. Tiffany’s famous 128-carat Yellow Diamond is considered to be priceless, as it enjoys an unshared status of being unlike any other diamond in the world.

Bid on a Fancy Colored Diamond of Your Own at FORTUNA®

Ready to start shopping for your own colored diamonds? Savvy buyers rely on the expertise of FORTUNA® when searching for the finest property available, and consignors consistently turn to us to realize the highest prices for their exceptional jewelry. 

We have a host of fancy colored diamonds in our December sale, and invite you to register to bid at auction for a chance to purchase one of these captivating pieces. 

Pretty in Pink Diamonds

Pink diamonds are among the rarest fancy color diamonds. Even the famed Argyle mine in Australia, known for producing over 80% of the world’s pink diamonds, finds them only amongst less than 1% of its stock. The value of diamonds like these is expected to skyrocket after the closure of this mine in 2020. In fact, according to the Fancy Color Research Foundation (FCRF), the value of pink diamonds already rose 116 percent between 2010 and 2020. This rise is greater than that of any other diamond, including the extremely rare blue diamond—making pink diamonds a great investment, as well as a wonderful engagement ring.

Now that the Argyle mine has shut, where else can high-quality pink diamonds be sourced? The stones can also be found in Russia, Tanzania, South Africa, and occasionally Brazil. Yet, there is no reported regular production from any mine. Pink diamonds are also graded for the intensity of the color, which follows an internationally recognized scale of: faint, very light, light, fancy light, fancy, fancy intense, fancy deep, and fancy vivid. And like other diamonds, the stronger the color, the higher the price tag. The price per carat of a natural fancy pink diamond can range anywhere between $100,000 per carat to over $1,000,000 per carat.

“I believe in pink.”

Audrey Hepburn
5.43-Carat Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Marquise Diamond Ring, offered in FORTUNA®’s upcoming November Jewels & Watches auction.

Pink diamonds aren’t only special because of their rarity. Part of the allure of pink diamonds is their mystery. To this day, gemologists aren’t entirely sure how the pink diamond obtains its color. Unlike other Fancy Color Diamonds, the pink shade is not caused from chemical impurities that cause some diamonds to appear blue or yellow. Some suspect that the enormous pressure undergone by pink diamonds during formation is a likely cause, though others believe it could be related to a seismic shock that impacted the stone’s molecular structure. As a result, the color and hue of lab-grown pink diamonds cannot be replicated to appear even close to that of a true natural pink diamond.

Pink diamonds became the talk of the town and rose in demand after the engagement of Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck in 2002. The star popped the question with an eye-popping fancy pink diamond ring by Harry Winston. The recent rekindling of romance between the two stars has sparked much speculation over whether the return of “Bennifer” would also mean the return of her pink diamond ring. The pink diamond engagement ring craze even spread to other celebrity couples, such as Blake Lively and Ryan Reynolds, Victoria and David Beckham, and Margot Robbie and Tom Ackerley.

Throughout the eighteenth century, pink was the most fashionable color for both gentlemen and ladies. By the nineteenth century, color was feminized, as Euro-American men adopted black suits. In the 1940’s, pink began to be used to as a gender signifier in babies, a result of clever marketing to sell more baby clothes. Since then, pink has seen huge transformations. From its association with Barbie and femininity, it has now become a powerful, at times, even “punk” color—or so says Dr. Valerie Steele, director of the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York.

“Pink is the only true rock and roll color.”

Paul Simonon, bass guitarist for The Clash
This 5.43-Carat Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Marquise will be offered this November for an estimated $420,000–$460,000.


While the origin of a pink diamond’s color is still heavily debated by geologists, the color pink has captured people for centuries, inspiring such devotion and iconic phrases as “la vie en rose” and “I believe in pink.” In popular culture, pink has been used to depict an array of moods, from the fun-loving attitude of Elle Woods in “Legally Blonde” to Elvis Presley’s cool pink Cadillac. In Audrey Hepburn’s film, “Funny Face,” women were encouraged to do away with the dull beige and black of everyday life and “Think Pink!”. The color is truly electric and appropriate for all occasions. So whether your style is more “Pretty in Pink” or “Punk Pink,” a pink diamond engagement ring is sure to inspire equal feelings of love, romance, and fortitude in all who wear it.