Tiffany & Co. Aquamarine Morganite and Diamond Drop Necklace Sold for $30,000
Birthstones play a significant role in people’s lives. Many people attribute good health, wealth and security to the gemstones they wear or use. Each month has at least one associated gem known as a birthstone. Read on to learn about March’s most popular birthstone.
What Is the Birthstone for March?
Aquamarine is the birthstone for March. This gemstone got its name because its bright blue color resembles clear ocean water. The name “aquamarine” comes from the Latin word for seawater, “aquamarina.”
Aquamarine is a part of the beryl mineral family, along with emerald and heliodor. Beryl gems are often flawless and transparent. This blue or cyan gemstone forms in igneous rocks and grows in giant six-sided crystals that can reach a foot in length. The gems can grow to impressive sizes, then be cut down and polished to resemble clean-cut stones.
David Webb Multigemstone Necklace Sold for $10,625
When Did Aquamarine First Appear?
The first documented discovery of aquamarine was made in 1723 in the Siberian mountains. By the end of the 18th century, large deposits of aquamarine were exported from Russia and shipped to Europe.
Today, aquamarine primarily comes from Brazil. You can also find this gemstone in Nigeria, Pakistan, Zambia, Mozambique and Madagascar.
Does Aquamarine Have a Meaning?
There are many meanings and symbols associated with aquamarine. In ancient times, the Greeks and Romans thought of aquamarine as the sailor’s gem. They believed this blue gem would protect sailors during storms while traveling across the ocean. Ancient cultures also thought aquamarine was a token of love between married couples. Now, it’s the official gemstone to celebrate a 19th wedding anniversary.
Aquamarine also symbolizes happiness and everlasting youth in the Sumerian, Egyptian and Hebrew cultures. Many people believe that aquamarine has physical and mental healing powers. Modern believers think that the gemstone helps with fluid retention, glandular disorders and maintaining eye health. It’s also thought that aquamarine has calming, soothing and cleansing powers, making it an ideal gemstone for meditation.
Tony Duquette Aquamarine and Cultured Pearl Cuff Sold for $17,500
Is Aquamarine Valuable?
Aquamarine is a semi-precious stone, making it an affordable gem. Light blue stones are abundant, which makes lighter varieties of the stone inexpensive. However, there are instances when aquamarine is more valuable. Rich, dark blue aquamarine is rare, so gems of those shades are highly valuable and more expensive.
One of the most famous pieces of aquamarine is the crystal Eleanor Roosevelt received as a gift from the Brazillian government in 1936. It weighs 1,298 carats and is the second-largest cut of aquamarine.
Other famous aquamarine gemstones include the British Queen Elizabeth’s aquamarine tiara that matches her aquamarine necklace and earrings. Another member of the royal family also has an aquamarine piece of jewelry. Prince Harry gave his late mother Princess Diana’s aquamarine cocktail ring to his wife, Meghan Markle, as a gift.
Contact Fortuna Auction Today
Do you want to learn more about aquamarine jewelry? Fortuna Auction can help. We are the only global premier fine jewelry and watch auction house. Find out more information about gemstones and our upcoming monthly sales when you contact Fortuna today!
If you own an extensive jewelry collection, there’s a good chance that at least one of your pieces consists of citrine. This semiprecious quartz variant is one of the most popular gemstones. Depending on the version, citrine exhibits an attractive golden brown to pale yellow color that closely resembles topaz. Examples of specific color options include bright and deep orange, golden yellow, lemon and reddish-brown.
Cartier Art Deco Citrine Diamond and Onyx Pin Sold for $9,375
Citrine consists of large, visible crystals of quartz, the second most abundant mineral found in the earth’s crust. Although quartz is common, natural citrine is relatively rare. Madagascar and the Ural Mountains of Russia are among the few locations in the world where it’s possible to mine citrine.
Natural citrine may develop in the form of geodes, which are secondary geological formations found in rock cavities. Geodes begin as mud balls in sedimentary rock or bubbles in volcanic rock. Over time, the outer shell of the geode hardens into a spherical shape. Citrine may also occur as veins of quartz beneath the earth’s surface.
What Is the Meaning of Citrine Stone?
The Ancient Greeks started using citrine as a gemstone around 300 B.C. The name derives from the Latin word “citrus” and the French word “citron” due to its yellowish hue. The color also exhibits the warmth, energy and power of the sun, another reason citrine stones are favorites of jewelry buyers around the world. Finding “natural” citrine is rare — in most cases, a heat-treating process transforms quartz into citrine.
Besides its visually appealing color, citrine contains several properties that make it a top gemstone choice for watches, rings, necklaces and other jewelry pieces:
Clarity: Like most quartz materials, citrine offers a clear visual presentation. Because of its remarkable transparency, ensuring the color’s evenness throughout the stone is a primary consideration when purchasing a citrine stone. Small blemishes or cracks are also more likely to show.
Hardness: As a quartz derivative, citrine is harder than most minerals. It measures 7.0 on the Mohs hardness scale, trailing only topaz, corundum (sapphires and rubies) and diamond. However, as a gemstone, citrine is relatively soft. It’s possible to cut and shape citrine into various configurations. Although citrine jewelry pieces scratch easily, they’re tough enough to resist breaking or chipping.
Health benefits: Many people feel that wearing citrine jewelry contributes to better physical and mental health. The yellowish color projects warmth and stimulates the brain, promoting creativity, motivation and self-expression. It also wards off negative feelings like anxiety and depression.
What Is the Worth of Citrine?
The worth of a citrine piece largely depends on its color. In general, the darker deep red-orange color offers the highest value at around $30 per carat. The value typically diminishes as the shade lightens. Pale yellow products may only be worth about $10 per carat. Unlike diamonds and other gemstones, size has little impact on the price of citrine jewelry.
Citrine and Diamond Gold Cuff Sold for $150,000
Caring for Citrine Jewelry
Regular care helps preserve the beauty of a citrine ring, watch, bracelet, necklace or earrings. Due to the stone’s susceptibility to scratches, you should store citrine pieces in fabric-lined compartments of a jewelry box, away from other items. Use warm, soapy water and a soft-bristled brush to clean your citrine products.
Trust FORTUNA When Selling Your Citrine Jewelry
Do you have any citrine jewelry pieces you’d like to sell? FORTUNA’s process ensures you’ll get excellent value for your products and you’ll avoid the unscrupulous practices of many local jewelers, jewelry dealers or pawn shops.
Contact us to learn more about what citrine is good for and how our auctions can help you get top dollar for your pieces. If you’re looking to buy, browse our upcoming auctions to see what’s available.
Kashmir is a region of Northern India known for producing some of the most beautiful sapphires at market. The sapphire trade in Kashmir is relatively recent, beginning in the 19th century, while other places have centuries of history.
Sapphires possess a rich history of being much sought after as beautiful additions to jewelry or standalone jewels. Yet, the desirability of Kashmir sapphires stand apart from sapphires originating from other regions, due to their rarity and appearance.
Edwardian 1.62-Carat Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Platinum Pin, achieved $21,250 at FORTUNA®’s 2018 June Fine Jewels auction.
What Sets Kashmir Sapphires Apart From Other Sapphires?
The importance of the Kashmir origin among sapphires can be likened to Burma for rubies. Gem-quality Kashmir sapphires are unmatched for their gorgeous blue color, a blue that is often described as a “corn-flower” blue or having a “velvety” appearance—as pictured above in the Edwardian 1.62-Carat Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Platinum Pin, a highlight of FORTUNA®’s 2018 June Fine Jewels sale in the past. When compared to most other blue sapphires, the richness and quality of color in fine Kashmir sapphires are truly in a league of their own.
The velvety softness of Kashmir sapphires can be attributed to minute liquid filled cavities within the stone that can only be seen with a high-power microscope. Under magnification, Kashmir sapphires also exhibit a unique phenomenon known as “zoning,” where the blue hue seems to be concentrated in parallel bands. Unlike most other sapphires, Kashmir sapphires lose none of their vibrancy or strength of color under artificial light.
Victorian 4.30ct Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, achieved $187,500 at FORTUNA’s 2018 September Important Jewels auction.
How Rare Are Kashmir Sapphires?
Kashmir sapphires are rare, and their presence at auctions are scarce compared to most other colored gemstones.
The unrest in the Kashmir region, where India and Pakistan have a longstanding dispute, makes further mining more difficult, contributing to the scarcity of the stone. Very little has been taken from the Kashmir mines since the early part of the last century. With no new gems coming out, the ones already in circulation are even more in demand.
Kashmir sapphires remain the crown jewel in many collections. They have become more sought after as their scarcity increases, and finding a quality one at auction is considered a major achievement for those who appreciate their deep color, and velvety, soft smoothness.
Find Kashmir Sapphires With FORTUNA®
While origin is very important to a sapphire’s value, it is also critical to note that a Kashmir origin is not an automatic indicator of the gemstone’s quality. FORTUNA’s jewelry specialists have years of experience evaluating rare gemstones, including Kashmir sapphires, and are available to consult whether you are seeking a Kashmir sapphire to add to your collection or are looking to sell. Browse our upcoming auctions or contact us for more information.
The Foster family built a great legacy as founders of one of the most successful retail lumber enterprises in the United States, and we are thrilled to share part of that legacy with you in our November Jewels & Watches auction. John McCullough Foster established his first retail lumberyard in Randolph, Kansas in 1879, the first of what blossomed into an empire of over 70 lumber yards across 5 Midwestern states.
John McCullough Foster and one of his sons, Benjamin, who succeeded him as President of Foster Lumber Company.
In 1880, the Kansas Central Railway was extending its line, in an area formerly known as Clinesburg, Texas. The Fosters established a mill there, and what began as tenant housing quickly grew into a flourishing town known as Fostoria. The Fosters brought a progressive, idyllic existence, making sure to give back to the community. Schools, churches, a store, a hotel, and more were all run by the family. The only thing not run by the mill was the post office. Today, the Fosters are remembered as progressive employers creating a fulfilling living experience for all lucky enough to live in a Foster-held community.
The Fosters learned to enjoy their vast wealth, investing in fine jewelry as well. In 1945, one of Foster’s grandsons, also named John, spotted this luminous Art Deco Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl and Diamond Ring at William Schmidt & Sons, right here by Rockefeller Center half a century ago. This exquisite piece has remained with his family as an heirloom ever since.
Original 1940s advertisement material from Wm. V. Schmidt Co., Inc. about Cat’s Eye gemstones.
What are Cat’s Eye Gemstones?
Art Deco Cat’s Eye Chrysoberyl and Diamond Ring, an exquisite Foster family heirloom (Lot 2250, November Jewels & Watches)
Cat’s eye, or chatoyancy, occurs in gemstones when a band of light is reflected from a series of thin crystals in a stone that are parallel to each other.The eye of a chrysoberyl is the sharpest of any cat’s eye gemstone, but the optical effect can be found in moonstones, aquamarines, and tourmalines. In chrysoberyl gems, fine silk crystal inclusions create this effect. When light obliquely strikes such a stone, it usually creates a shadow effect within the gem. The side opposite the light is a rich brown, while the side facing the light is yellowish-white. This so-called “milk and honey” look is characteristic of the finest cat’s eyes and makes them so desired.
Shaped by sweeping cultural changes and the World Wars era, bold, Retro jewelry embodied the history of its time. Today, this period’s jewelry still offers timeless elegance, value and rich heritage from when the world was swiftly changing.
Tiffany & Co. Vintage Amethyst Necklace from 2021 November Jewels & Watches auction.
The Rich History of Retro Jewelry
Retro jewelry spans the period of the late 1930s through the mid-1950s. As it moved through early modernism and World War II, the time’s signature designs reflected the nuanced changes of history.
Its distinctive style began in France, with the first designs by Van Cleef & Arpels appearing at the New York World’s Fair in 1939. Over the next decade, the iconic designs became popular throughout the United States. As World War II ravaged Europe, the United States carried on the European-inspired design. American designs took much inspiration from the new style, adapting past designs to fresh looks with bright colors and dramatic aesthetics.
As the world moved into the 1950s, retro jewelry played a leading role in developing art and design toward modernism, representing the post-World War II era’s futuristic vision. It became a popular image of a new larger-than-life design motif that reflected real-world objects with glamour and excitement.
This Boucheron Retro Gold and Diamond Clip (FORTUNA®’s April 2017 Spring Jewels auction).
Major Influences on Retro Jewelry Pieces
The World Wars had a profound impact on Retro jewelry. In the midst of the wartime era, patriotic and industrial themes appeared on many retro pieces. Accessories such as tank tread bracelets and red, white and blue stones became increasingly common, as did jewelry with military emblems and motifs.
One of the biggest influences on jewels of the period was the impact of the war on the supply of precious metal and gemstones. Platinum, which had been increasingly popular during the Art Deco era, was rare and often forbidden for sale, and many precious metals had to be rationed for the war effort. Palladium was substituted for platinum and low carat gold alloys, gold mixed heavily with copper, were used to make the most of the gold that was available. The innovative usage of gold alloys was widespread and jewelry of the period often had a reddish tinge to the gold, due to the copper, or incorporated tri-color gold designs. Similarly, precious gems became rarer because of shortages in the supply chain.
Retro Diamond Necklace from FORTUNA®’s recent November Jewels & Watches auction.
Signature Pieces of the Retro Jewelry Era
Glamorous and dramatic, Retro jewelry reflected new vivacity as the world moved forward from a tumultuous beginning of the century.
Brooches were a popular accessory of this period, added to a scarf, handbag or dress for accentuated elegance. Retro pins were often an elegant touch to soften the hard lines and somber colors of wartime fashion, and designs such as scrolls, fans and jeweled fruit became quite common. The fabric-like and ribbon designs seen in the Retro Sapphire and Ruby Brooch and Retro Tri-color Gold Ruby and Diamond Brooch, pictured below, are quintessentially Retro.
Retro Sapphire and Ruby Brooch (2021 January Jewels & Watches auction).
Retro Tri-color Gold Ruby and Diamond Brooch (2021 January Jewels & Watches auction).
Among the rings of the time, cocktail rings were highly fashionable. Exquisitely complex, they were statement pieces made to draw attention. Typically gold with minimal diamond accents and chunky, brightly colored center-gemstones, they combined brilliant colors and shapes into a bold statement piece.
Retro Large Aquamarine Ruby and Diamond Ring (2019 February Fine Jewels auction).
Retro Sculptural Large Citrine Ring from FORTUNA® ‘s recent November Jewels & Watches.
Necklaces of the era were popularly chokers or collar-length, to accommodate the fashion of dresses with high-necked collars. Gaspipe or Tubogas chains were the familiar chain of the time—their thick weave made them look heavy, but they were lightweight and easy to wear.
Cartier Retro Bracelet (2020 August Jewels & Watches auction).
Tiffany & Co. Ruby and Diamond Necklace (2017 September Fine Jewels auction).
An innovation by Van Cleef & Arpels, gold ludo bracelets became all of the rage during the 1930s. These were flexible gold strap bracelets composed of brick-like or hexagonal plaques. The style caught fire and many of the major jewelry houses adopted the design, as seen in the above Cartier Retro Bracelet and Tiffany & Co. Ruby and Diamond Necklace from prior sales.
Another particularly fashionable style of bracelet was to decorate wide gold cuffs by adding recycled pins or charms, particularly from the preceding Art Deco years. Shortages due to the war often meant that clients had to work creatively with their jewelers to remodel or repurpose existing jewels. An excellent example of the trend is this Very Fine Retro Bangle Bracelet with Art Deco Diamond Charms. Oversized woven and braided gold strap bracelets of the time were often also the ideal place to conceal a watch for a touch of functionality.
Retro Diamond Charm Hinged Bangle Bracelet, offered in FORTUNA®’s recent November Jewels & Watches auction.
Many changes toward bolder designs and patterns also reflected the changing times. As the world moved into a new period of history, this jewelry’s futuristic touches represented modernism and innovation in a fast-changing world.
How to Identify Genuine Period Jewelry
There are a few key signifiers that can help you identify Retro jewelry. First, look for the bold color schemes and designs that were a trademark of the period. Another indicator is historical motifs such as military designs that might point you toward the World War II era.
Because many types of metals and gemstones were scarce during the time, pay attention to the jewelry piece’s metals. Finally, look for clip-on earrings, brooch clasps, and similar designs that match the styles of this period.
Relive the Elegance of Retro Jewelry From Our Collections
At FORTUNA®, we value transparency and help each of our clients understand their jewelry’s true value. We are pleased to offer an elegant selection of genuine retro jewelry pieces. To explore our exquisite collections, browse our upcoming auctions today.
One of the many highlights in FORTUNA®’s November Jewels & Watches sale, this striking Harry Winston 6.01-Carat Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring is a must-have for those looking for the perfect engagement ring. The whopping center stone shown here glitters with E color and VS2 clarity and is flanked by two glamorous baguettes when set in its beautifully crafted platinum Harry Winston band. Collectors will be pleased to know that this ring comes complete with its original Harry Winston box and a GIA certificate. FORTUNA is excited to present a closer look at this impressive diamond from all angles.
Harry Winston 6.01-Carat Pear-Shaped Diamond Ring, GIA Certified from our upcoming November Jewels & Watches auction
In 1947, Harry Winston was dubbed the “King of Diamonds” by “Cosmopolitan” magazine, a legacy that lives with the jewelry house to this very day. The intuitive jeweler and master gemologist traveled the far corners of the earth on his quest for the world’s finest stones, and this fantastic ring is as great an example of excellence as Harry Winston always strived for.
Colored diamonds make headlines. These gemological marvels break records at auction houses and can be found in practically every color.
The chance of a diamond displaying unique color is roughly one in 25,000. While orange, purple, green and red are the rarest, yellows and browns are the most common fancy colors.
What Causes the Different Colors?
Each diamond possesses a unique structure of chemical elements that dictate its color, desirability, value and rarity. Most fancy color diamonds derive their color from impurities such as boron and nitrogen.
Some of the rarest—and most expensive—diamond colors include:
Yellow: Trace amounts of nitrogen cause diamonds to appear yellow, with the color’s intensity depending on how much of the element is present in the gemstone. The stronger and more vivid the hue of yellow, the more valuable the yellow diamond. For more on Fancy Yellow diamonds, click here.
GIA-Certified 16.07-Carat Fancy Yellow Rectangular Brilliant-Cut Diamond Ring, Lot 3001 in Fortuna’s upcoming December Jewels & Watches auction.
Pink: The color centers of naturally pink diamonds can selectively absorb light in the visible region of the spectrum. Color centers result from anomalies in a crystal’s atom arrangement; a change in the crystal lattice due to intense heat exposure during the stone’s formation can sometimes cause pink graining. Because the pink color comes from atomic-level distortions to the diamond’s crystal structure, pink diamonds cannot be replicated through laboratory treatment in the same way, making these gemstones all the more spectacular. For more on pink diamonds, click here.
Red: The origin of a red diamond’s color is believed to be the same as that of pink diamonds, but in a more concentrated form. This theory of red diamonds being dark pink diamonds is supported by the fact that red diamonds can be only found in a single color intensity. Red is the rarest diamond color. Less than 30 genuine red diamonds have been found and cut, and they can cost up to $1 million per carat.
Blue: Natural blue diamonds derive their color from the presence of boron. Their hue can also be associated with hydrogen or caused by radiation exposure.
Green: Naturally colored green diamonds are scarce. The displacement of carbon atoms from their normal positions causes these diamonds to develop their signature color. This phenomenon can happen artificially due to treatment by radiation or naturally when diamond deposits lie near radioactive rocks.
Black: Black diamonds have many fractures that yield the stone’s distinct dark hue due to graphitization. Most get their color from large quantities of minute mineral inclusions such as hematite, pyrite or graphite that extend throughout the stone.
Brown: A natural brown diamond develops its color due to parallel brown grain lines arising due to molecular arrangement distortion.
1.01-Carat Fancy Deep Pink Diamond Ring (Lot 2099, November Jewels & Watches).
Fancy Green-Blue and Fancy Greenish Blue Diamond Drop Earrings (Lot 2100, November Jewels & Watches).
The Rarity of Colored Diamonds
Most diamonds mined throughout the world, even if they contain traces of yellow, are considered colorless. Brown and yellow diamonds make up the majority of colored diamonds available today, with most naturally colored diamonds being lighter in saturation or tone.
A Pair of Heart-Shape Fancy Colored Diamond Ear Studs, in Fancy Deep Yellowish Orange and Fancy Intense Purplish Pink (Lot 2098, November Jewels & Watches auction).
Yet the rarity of Fancy Color diamonds cannot be overstated; only one true colored diamond is found for every 10,000 carats mined. And mining diamonds with medium to dark tones is an extremely rare occurrence, a phenomenon that drives its market value higher. Furthermore, when especially large Fancy Color diamonds are found, their value reaches an almost legendary status at market. Tiffany’s famous 128-carat Yellow Diamond is considered to be priceless, as it enjoys an unshared status of being unlike any other diamond in the world.
Bid on a Fancy Colored Diamond of Your Own at FORTUNA®
Ready to start shopping for your own colored diamonds? Savvy buyers rely on the expertise of FORTUNA® when searching for the finest property available, and consignors consistently turn to us to realize the highest prices for their exceptional jewelry.
One of the oldest and most colorful gems on record, the opal is a beautiful stone for any skin tone, age and style. The gem comes in a range of colors and looks stunning in many different types of jewelry, though it is a favorite in necklaces and earrings. Found in areas within Australia and Ethiopia, the opal makes for a striking centerpiece with color and intensity that even surpass the beauty of a diamond.
Precious opals are known for their play of color or iridescence, as they can flash many different hues within the same stone.
What Is the Origin of Opals?
Antique Opal and Diamond Brooch, achieved $4,063 at FORTUNA’s 2020 August Jewels & Watches auction.
Opals are a combination of silica and water. Their formation process began millions of years ago, when rainwater seeped down into areas of the earth filled with silica-rich sandstone. The water mixed with and carried silica particles with it as it traveled down further into the ground, becoming trapped in cracks and crevices. Eventually, the water evaporated, leaving a silica deposit behind.
As rainwater continued to flow down into these crevices, the deposits gradually built up to form beautiful gems. Australia is the world’s leading source of opals, although Ethiopia is a strong competitor.
Do Opals Mean Anything?
Opals have a range of meanings because they come in a range of colors, shapes and sizes. In Greek mythology, opals were thought to be the result of Zeus’s tears falling to the earth. Other cultures believed the rainbow’s virgin goddess turned herself into an opal to escape suitors’ pursuits. As a result, the gem became associated with offering protection.
The colors of the opal itself have symbolized passion, love and spontaneity. Other ideas of happiness, loyalty and confidence are also attached to these vibrant stones, as is the belief that opal can attract money.
How are Opals Valued?
Some famous pieces of opal jewelry have been sold for hundreds of thousands of dollars. The price is determined by a few factors, with the origin being perhaps one of the most important. Australian opals are highly desired because Australia has been history’s longest opal source, creating a reliable and well-respected reputation for the nation. Ethiopia is still new to the market, making their opals a little more affordable.
Once the origin is confirmed, the class and body tone are the next two determining factors in value. The class identifies whether the opal is entirely authentic or is a doublet or triplet. In the latter, the piece is composed of a slice of genuine opal and one or two pieces of another material to give the opal a darker or more full appearance. Body tone is the background or foundational color of the opal, typically ranging from black to light. The darker the background, the more valuable the opal, as a black background displays refracted light more vividly. Genuine solid black opals are quite rare and can command extremely high prices at market. An example can be seen below in a spectacular ring from our September 2018 Important Jewels auction. The ring, a Louis Comfort Tiffany Art Nouveau design with a stunning black opal, achieved $12,5000 at auction. The strong play-of-color and mystique innate to precious opals made them a very popular choice for jewels during the Art Nouveau era.
Buccellati Black Opal and Enamel Earrings, FORTUNA’s 2021 July Jewels & Watches.
Louis Comfort Tiffany Art Nouveau Black Opal Diamond and Enamel Ring, FORTUNA’s 2018 September Important Jewels.
Visit FORTUNA® to Buy or Sell Opal Jewelry at Auction
If you are looking for opal jewels that can bring life and joy to your favorite looks or if you have opal jewelry to sell, trust FORTUNA for the best possible quality and deal. We host monthly auctions to showcase some of the most beautiful and collectible watches and jewelry in existence. A team of specialists with decades of experience in the jewelry industry carefully inspects each piece for value and authenticity.
Explore FORTUNA’s calendar for upcoming monthly sales and contact us with any questions. Sign up for our mailing list to keep an eye on our offerings!
Rolex is a brand loved by collectors across the globe. It’s known for groundbreaking wristwatch movements, including watches that reached submarine depths of more than 3,000 meters and traveled long distances across the sky. Each watch is made of the best, high-quality materials, built to last a collector a lifetime.
Here, learn more about the origins of Rolex watches, as well as how you can buy or sell your own Rolex.
The Origins of Rolex Watches
Rolex is well-loved for its high-quality watches. Collectors are equally intrigued by the brand’s rich history:
1902: Brother-in-laws Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis founded the Rolex brand in London, England. The duo specialized in making wristwatches from Hermann Aegler’s movements and high-quality watch cases from reputable companies, like those from Dennison.
1908: Rolex officially became a registered trademark. Now the sole proprietor, Wilsdorf chose the name Rolex because he wanted something people of all origins could pronounce. Plus, he thought the name resembled the sound of a watch being wound.
1910: Rolex becomes the first wristwatch brand to earn an independently ratified certificate of a chronometric performance — essentially a very high degree of excellence in timekeeping.
1914: The Kew Observatory awarded the Rolex watch with a “Class A” precision certificate. This was a monumental award as it is usually given to marine chronometers, and it was the first time a London wristwatch won the award.
1919: Wilsdorf moved his Rolex brand from London to Geneva because of newly imposed taxes that made metals too expensive. He chose Geneva so he could be closer to his Bienne-based suppliers.
1926: The Rolex Oyster was released. This was an exciting release, as the watch was marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch.
1927: A year after the Oyster release date, Wilsdorf gave famous swimmer Mercedes Gleitze the watch. Gleitze wore the watch around her neck as she swam across the English channel — and it performed perfectly afterward.
Mercedes Gleitze, circa 1930. As a professional endurance swimmer, her name was used to market Rolex’s new waterproof case, Oyster. Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
1931: The Rolex Oyster Perpetual model was released. Recognized as the first self-winding watch, the Oyster Perpetual combined the water-resistant power of the Oyster with a revolutionary automatic movement.
1953: The Rolex Submariner was released. Designed for divers, the watch was guaranteed waterproof to 100 meters and featured a rotating bezel to help divers track their dive time.
1955: In collaboration with Pan American Airways, the Rolex GMT-Master was released, introducing the now iconic blue and red “Pepsi” bezel. During this time in history, pilots began traveling longer and farther, now entering different time zones. The GMT-Master helped aviators tell times in different time zones. Now, it’s used by the Aviation Industry to calculate Coordinated Universal Time.
1962: Rolex becomes the official timekeeper of the Daytona car races and launches the popular Daytona Dial a year later.
1967: The Rolex Sea-Dweller was released. Rolex experienced huge success with the power of the Submariner — but Rolex wanted to triple the watch’s deep-sea abilities. The Sea-Dweller features a helium escape valve that made this goal possible.
1971: The Rolex Explorer II was released. This watch model was specially crafted for spelunkers, people who explore caves. The watch features an AM and PM feature, as people underground can’t distinguish between day and night. People can also read the features in the dark.
After Wilsdorf’s death in 1960, Rolex continued producing sought-after models like the Yacht-Master, Pearlmaster, Datejust II and the Sky-Dweller. You can still shop modern Rolex watches today and find sought-after vintage designs.
What Are the Most Famous Rolex Pieces?
Currently, Rolex offers many wristwatch styles. Some of their most famous and foundational pieces, however, are:
1. Oyster
Made in 1926, the Oyster revolutionized watchmaking. It’s recognized as the first waterproof case, strategically designed with 10 parts and sealed zones, protected against water and dust. The design enabled watch-wearers to wear their watches during various activities, including swimming.
Like other styles, the Oyster is currently available in many colors and sizes. It has two original dial colors, however — black with white gold and silver with gold accents. The watches are signed with “superlative chronometer official certified,” a tribute to Rolex’s 1910 recognition.
2. Daytona
Rolex introduced the Daytona in 1962. It’s named after the famous Florida city, home of the Daytona International Speedway. The Daytona allows racers to measure elapsed time and calculate their average speed using three subdials — small seconds, 30-minute and 12-hour counters.
The original Daytona has “Cosmograph” engraved in red under the Rolex logo. In the early 1960s, “Daytona” replaced Cosmograph, and the model continued to advance from there. Original Daytonas don’t have a date window nor engraving on the case backs. But, they do have two engravings on the sides, stating the model and serial numbers.
3. GMT-Master
In the mid-1950s, pilots began traveling longer distances across different time zones. Pan Am requested Rolex to make an aviator watch that could keep track of these different time zones.
Rolex created the GMT-Master that displayed a fourth time — Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), hence the name GMT-Master. Now, the watch displays the Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), following the 1972 transition established by the Aviation Industry.
4. Day-Date
In 1956, the luxurious Day-Date Rolex made its debut. This style is the first waterproof watch with a self-winding chronometer. The Day-Date displays the full calendar day along with the date.
The Day-Date is synonymous with luxury and prestige. The watch has been through many different styles and configurations over time—changing dial colors, size and design. This Rolex timepiece has been popularized by celebrities, politicians, CEOs and other high-profile individuals. Most famously, U.S. President Lyndon B. Johnson, an avid watch enthusiast, often wore his Rolex Day-Date during his presidency and gifted them throughout his life, and now the watch is more widely referred to as the “Rolex Presidential.”
5. Submariner
Introduced in 1953, the Submariner is a watch built for divers and others venturing deep below the surface. This Rolex style is famous for its resistance to water and iconic unidirectional rotating bezel.
Both vintage and modern releases of the Submariner are highly sought after.
How Can You Sell or Buy Rolex Watches?
Are you interested in adding a Rolex to your collection or making space in your collection for another collectible? Learn how to do both by considering the following steps:
How to Sell Your Rolex Watch
All Rolex watches are sought-after, especially older collectible models. The best way to sell your Rolex watch is by getting it in front of the right audience. Fine jewelry and watch auctions, like FORTUNA®, have a wide audience reach of people searching for Rolex pieces.
Sell your Rolex watch at FORTUNA in three simple steps:
Get a free valuation: Send pictures and fine details — such as serial and model numbers or original documentation — to FORTUNA with our web form or email, valuation@fortunaauction.com.
Sign a consignment agreement: Once our professionals have looked over your piece, they’ll send you a consignment agreement that lists the high and low estimated selling price, as well as other important information regarding the auction process. If you agree to the terms listed, you will sign the agreement, and we will prepare your Rolex watch for auction.
Collect your payment: Your Rolex watch will then go to auction. After it’s sold, FORTUNA will contact you regarding which of your pieces sold, at what price and how we will pay you.
You can participate in FORTUNA’s monthly auctions anywhere around the globe. Once registered, you’ll gain access to our auctions, hosted in-person, online, over the phone or via absentee.
We believe strongly in total transparency. FORTUNA holds a reliable reputation, and we want you to make a fully informed decision before adding a piece to your collection. We take great care when evaluating each piece and educating buyers on every detail, from its history to its craftsmanship.
Learn more about how you can buy a collectible Rolex watch from FORTUNA by visiting our buying page online.
Building Your Rolex Collection? Learn More About FORTUNA’s Luxury Auctions Today
Whether you’re ready to part with your Rolex watch or looking to add one to your collection, rely on FORTUNA. We’d love to walk you through our buying and selling processes in more detail. Learn more about FORTUNA by contacting us online or calling us directly at +1 (212)-389-9040.
Since its inception in 1912, Oscar Heyman & Brothers has remained unmatched in their stunning design, attention to detail, superb craftsmanship and quality of gemstones.
Now in its third generation, the haute joaillerie house remains devoted to developing exquisite designs that have been synonymous with impeccable taste for over 100 years. Heyman’s unmistakable flair can be spotted from time to time in FORTUNA®’s auction offerings, and they are always a delight.
In 1906, after gaining invaluable experience as apprentices in Faberge’ workshop in Latvia, brothers Oscar and Nathan Heyman, immigrated to New York City. Their skills working with platinum, the newest and most in demand metal in the jewelry industry, were in high demand. In 1912, the brothers were joined by their 4 other brothers and 3 sisters and opened a workshop of their own on Maiden Lane in Lower NYC . The firm quickly established itself as the “jeweler’s jeweler,” designing pieces for large jewelry houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Tiffany & Co. In 1939, the firm won a gold medal for Best in Show at the New York World’s Fair for its extraordinary collection of unique floral brooches. Indeed, as innovators of their time, the Heyman brothers also patented various jewelry manufacturing techniques.
Oscar Heyman Diamond and Ruby Orchid Brooch. Achieved $43,750 at auction.
Heyman’s craftsmen proudly devote their time to each component of the manufacturing process, including the creation of their own tools. Pieces signed by Oscar Heyman are kept under their keen eye from inception to completion—an attention to detail that makes them stand out amongst modern jewelry houses.
“Jewelry should never be a candidate for redesign but should transcend time like a fine painting, never losing its appeal.”
—Oscar Heyman
A prime example of the polished elegance created by the jeweler can be seen in Heyman’s classic “entourage” style. The “entourage” ring, pioneered by Heyman in the 1920’s, features an oval-cut center gemstone surrounded by oval-cut diamonds, and is truly a testament to the brand’s understated elegance.
Oscar Heyman Brothers 3.64-Carat Ruby and Diamond Ring, featuring a more elaborate version of the “entourage” style with extra yellow sapphire accents. Achieved $8,750 at auction.
It is this timeless design and unique stylishness that has lead their creations to be so coveted for over a century. The firm’s designs continue to reflect Oscar’s belief that “jewelry should never be a candidate for redesign but should transcend time like a fine painting, never losing its appeal.”
